2018-19秋冬男装

如果说我们在2018年冬季时装周上看到的所有服装中有什么特别之处的话，那就是可以当作盔甲的服装。这是一个专门为保护穿着者而设计的衣柜，这样他就可以自信地面对现代世界，拥有超大的肩膀、衬垫、消防夹克和顶级的层叠。运动装在这一新的时尚词汇中根深蒂固，但这一季它让位于一些时尚的小特点和别致的流行元素。可以试试西式风格，剪裁犀利，牛油软皮和五星面料，这些都达到了奢侈的新高度，混合了大胆和坚决的现代风格。

If there’s one characteristic that stands out amongst everything we saw at the winter 2018 collections, it was clothing as armor. This is a wardrobe designed to protect the wearer so he can take on the modern world with confidence, with extra large shoulders, padding, fire jackets and superlative layering. Sportswear is well-anchored in this new fashion vocabulary, but this season it made way for a few fashion foibles and chic accents. Think Western style, sharp tailoring, butter-soft leather and five-star fabrics that reached new heights of luxury for a hybrid style that is both daring and resolutely modern.

1. 满身标识（Logomania）

2. 消防队夹克（Fire department jackets）

一些潮流会在没有时尚宣传的情况下出现，成为本季的必需品。而消防员的反光条纹夹克就是这样的情况。

代表设计：Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, 巴宝莉，Junya Watanabe

Some trends emerge without fashion fanfare to become the must-have of the season. The fireman’s jacket with reflective stripes did just that, seen at Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, Burberry and Junya Watanabe.

3. 超大号肩膀（XXL shoulders）

可以想想理查德基尔在1980年代时候的在美国舞男的扮相，由阿玛尼先生接管了男装部之后带来的的超大号裁剪让肩膀变宽了，显示出一种锋利感。那是最好的一个令人兴奋的的十年里根时代。如今，华尔街大发横财的世界让世界有了越来越多的分歧。今天的时代让人回想起当年推动设计师设计肩部更宽的夹克和外套的那种氛围。时尚铠甲让你应对这样一个不确定的世界。

代表设计：Y/Project, Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, Maison Margiela

Think Richard Gere circa 1980, during the American Gigolo period, when the sharp, oversized tailoring of Mr Armani took over menswear and shoulders got wider, all the better to take on an exciting new decade that heralded the Reagan years, when Wall St traders made their fortunes in a world that was increasingly divided. Today’s times recall a little of the same ambiant zeitgeist that pushed designers to create jackets and coats with shoulders that were ever wider. Fashion armour for an uncertain world.

Y/Project, Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, Maison Margiela

4. 西部男孩儿（Western boy）

作为希望和梦想的象征，美国西部广阔的平原似乎是时尚之都的设计师们取之不尽的灵感源泉。在纽约，拉夫西蒙斯(Raf Simons)凭借卡尔文克莱因(Calvin Klein) 205W39NYC)在过去两季中最受欢迎的靴子为美国文化注入了活力;在米兰，Dsquared2推出了梦幻阿波罗牛仔秀;在巴黎，德里斯范诺顿(Dries Van Noten)为自己的系列注入了牧场田园的风格。

代表设计：Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2

A symbol of hopes and dreams, the wide plains of the American West are a seemingly inexhaustible source of inspiration for designers across the fashion capitals. In New York, Raf Simons took the pulse of US culture with talent for Calvin Klein 205W39NYC with the most desirable boots of the past two seasons; in Milan Dsquared2 sent fantasy Apollo Cowboys down the runway and in Paris, Dries Van Noten infused his collection with qui accents of life on the ranch.

Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2

5. 层次（Layering）

在巴黎世家(Balenciaga)和Vetements, Demna Gvasalia与brio合作推出的“2018-2019秋冬”(Fall/Winter 2018-2019)中，多层次是最突出的趋势之一。是对全球变暖和全球紧张局势的回应？还是简单的季节性造型?你来决定答案吧。

代表设计：Y/Project, 巴黎世家, Vetements

Accumulation was one of the stand-out trends for Fall/Winter 2018-2019, launched with brio by Demna Gvasalia, at Balenciaga and Vetements. A kick in the teeth for global warming and tension around the world, or simple seasonal styling? You decide.

Y/Project, Balenciaga, Vetements

6. 格子（Checks）

从适合亚历山大麦昆(Alexander McQueen)新贵族风格的苏格兰格子花呢，到学院预科生，再到对艾米海克尔林(Amy Heckerling)在范思哲(Versace)的个人崇拜电影《懵懂》(Clueless)的致敬，再到通过Sacai的概念棱角看到的伐木者格子花呢，各种各样的几何元素都有。你自己选吧！

代表设计：Sacai，亚历山大麦昆，范思哲

Checks of variable geometry ran from Scottish clan tartan fit for the neo-aristocracy at Alexander McQueen, to preppy accents and a nod to Amy Heckerling’s cult film Clueless at Versace, to woodcutter plaids seen through Sacai’s conceptual prism. The choice is yours.

Sacai, Alexander McQueen, Versace

7. 卡通元素（Cartoons）

在这一季的针织服装中，我们看到了拉夫西蒙斯(Raf Simons)在Calvin Klein设计的Road Runner和Wile E Coyote，这是他与鲁尼音乐公司(Looney Tunes)在instagram上高度活跃的新合作的一部分。在伦敦，事情总是会变得更具颠覆性，乔纳森安德森(Jonathan Anderson)使用了20世纪50年代同性恋艺术家多姆奥尔朱多斯(Dom Orejudos)的同性情色纹身，指的是芬兰士兵汤姆奥尔朱多斯(Tom of Finland)。川久保玲(Rei Kawakubo)在开幕秀上展示了超人卡通漫画，展示了她的时尚宣言。使用卡通元素仿佛在说:保持不冒犯，保持开放，为了一个更温和的世界。

代表设计：川久保玲男装，Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, JW Anderson

On knits the season, we spotted Road Runner and Wile E Coyote at Calvin Klein by Raf Simons, as part of his highly Instagrammable new collaboration with Looney Tunes. Over in London, where things are always going to be a little more subversive, Jonathan Anderson used homo-erotic tattoos by gay 1950s artist Dom Orejudos, referencing Tom of Finland’s soldiers. And Rei Kawakubo presented a fashion manifesto when she opened her show with Superman cartoon strips. It said: stay inoffensive, stay open, for a gentler world.

Comme des Garons Homme Plus, Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, JW Anderson

8. 帽子（Caps）

在这一季的beanie中，这顶帽子在2018-2019秋冬系列中占据了最多的走秀时间。特别提到的是意大利品牌芬迪和古奇与美国巨头美国职业棒球大联盟以及Demna Gvasalia曾与世界粮食计划署创建一个帽每个购买的购买了200高营养饼干。

Up there with the beanie this season, the cap racked up the most runway time during the Fall/Winter 2018-2019 collections. A special mention goes to the Italian houses who raised the game at Fendi and Gucci - who teamed up with US giant Major League Baseball - as well as Demna Gvasalia who worked with the World Food Programme to create a cap each purchase of which bought 200 high-nutrition biscuits.

9. 条纹（Pinstripes）

在运动装当道的年代，细条纹西装曾在亚历山大麦昆(Alexander McQueen)、Maison Margiela和范思哲(Versace)等品牌中引人注目。

代表设计：Maison Margiela，范思哲，亚历山大麦昆

At a time when sportswear is king, pinstripe suits made notable appearances at Alexander McQueen, Maison Margiela and Versace.

Maison Margiela, Versace, Alexander McQueen

10. 皮衣（Leather coats）

奢侈品达到了新的高度，在伯鲁蒂(Berluti)、爱马仕(Hermes)和普拉达(Prada)，时装公司展示了专业技能和卓越的做工精美的皮大衣。

代表设计：伯鲁蒂，爱马仕，普拉达

Luxury reached new heights as houses demonstrated expertise and excellence with beautifully worked leather coats at Berluti, Hermès and Prada.

Prada, Berluti, Hermès

11. 高级工装（Couture Technicwear）

以当前设计师对运动装的痴迷为例，再加上时尚圈对北脸（North Face）风格技术服装的兴趣日益浓厚，你就会拥有一个从山上直接下来的衣橱。关键的区别在于，高级定制的结构，它结合了技术和风格，带来了一种荼蘼的效果。

代表是合计：朗文，Vetement，路易威登

Take the current designer obsession with sportswear, add the growing interest in fashionable circles for North Face-style technicwear and you get a wardrobe that has come straight off the mountain. The key difference, is couture construction, that combines technicality and style to devastating effect.

Lanvin, Vetements, Louis Vuitton

12. 肉欲主义（Fetishism）

我想有些读者会默默一笑，但S&M风格在instagram上的高度影响力对品牌来说是强大的。设计师们希望用乳胶来制作狗和猪的面具，而束缚的外表和皮革则是一种名副其实的T台痴迷。杰里米斯科特(Jeremy Scott)甚至在Moschino专门设计了一整套系列。

代表设计：Julien David, Walter Van Beirendonck, Moschino

It might raise a smile from the audience, but the highly Instagrammable impact of S&M styling is powerful for labels. Designers looked to latex to create dog and pig masks, and bondage looks and leather were a veritable runway obsession. Jeremy Scott even dedicated a whole collection to it at Moschino.

Julien David, Walter Van Beirendonck, Moschino

13. 虎纹（Tiger print）

豹纹已死，如今虎纹当道，最好作为一件宽松的外套搭配出一种垮垮的感觉。

代表设计：BV，亚历山大麦昆，华伦天奴

Leopard print is dead, make way for tiger print, best worn as a coat thrown over a dressed-down grungey rock look.

Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen, Valentino

14. 夜场范儿（Night Fever glam）

一场由人造钻石和亮片组成的海啸席卷了伸展台，是向法国猫王约翰尼哈利戴致敬吗?

代表设计：Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, SSS World Cop, Balmain

A tsunami of rhinestones and sequins swept over the runways. The utlimate tribute to the French Elvis, Johnny Hallyday?

Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, SSS World Cop, Balmain

15. 远东范儿（The Far East）

批评者可能会谴责这是一种文化挪用，但设计师们认为这是对日本和中国文化精华的致敬。正是这些盛开的樱花(Haider Ackermann)、中国民间传说(Kenzo)和传统服饰(古琦[Gucci]、詹德周[Zander Zhou])启发了他们的设计。

代表设计：Kenzo, Gucci, Haider Ackermann

Detractors might decry this one as cultural appropriation, but designers see it as a tribute to the refinement of Japanese and Chinese cultures, whose sakura blossom (Haider Ackermann), Chinese folklore (Kenzo) and traditional costume (Gucci, Zander Zhou) inspired their collections.

Kenzo, Gucci, Haider Ackermann

16. 包头巾（Headgear）

在T台上，你可以看到丝巾、兜帽、华丽的头饰、超炫的乳胶、舒适的羊毛和看着我的珍珠。

代表设计：Vetements, Gucci,Calvin Klein 205W39NYC

With scarves, hoods and ornate head jewelry in outré latex, cozy wool and look-at-me pearls all on the runway, next winter you won’t want to go bare-headed.

Vetements, Gucci,Calvin Klein 205W39NYC

17. 热带俱乐部（Club Tropicana）

从普拉达(Prada)的火红印花复古风，到SSS World Cop的叛逆骷髅头，再到威尔士邦纳(Wales Bonner)的敏感主题，印花衬衫将一直穿到明年冬天，让人耳目一新。

代表设计：SSS World Cop, Prada, Wales Boner

From Prada’s archive flame print revival, to rebel skulls at SSS World Cop and Wales Bonner’s sensitive motifs, the print shirt will run and run through next winter. Refreshing.

SSS World Cop, Prada, Wales Boner

18. 羊皮夹克（Shearling jackets）

每个衣柜都需要一件羊皮外套，当水银下降时，选择一件合适的，它将持续你的一生。这一季的最佳选择是巴宝莉(Burberry)、伯鲁蒂(Berluti)和路易威登(Louis Vuitton)。

代表设计：巴宝莉，伯鲁蒂，路易威登

Every wardrobe needs a sheepskin coat when the mercury drops, choose the right one and it will last you a lifetime. The pick of the crop this season was at Burberry, Berluti and Louis Vuitton.

Burberry, Louis Vuitton, Berluti

19. 软衬料（Padding）

拥抱各种羽绒服吧，让身体被包裹在一层保护层中，就像现代版的盔甲。普拉达(Prada)发布了从头到尾都是非常吸引人的款式，而Sacai和GmbH推出的设计更是让时尚代表们欣喜若狂。

代表设计：Sacai, Prada, GmbH

Flirting with volume, puffer jackets and other feather-light duvet garments wrapped around the body in a protective layer, like modern armor. A statement at Prada from the first look to the last, with highly desirable pieces that will send your fashion rep sky-high at Sacai and GmbH.

Sacai, Prada, GmbH

20. 花团锦簇（Fleurs）

在他们的夹克上有一种混合的民间传说或额外的印象，在podiums上有一个谨慎的外观，只有一个口号:一种还是带着混凝土般的刚强的保证。

代表设计：Dolce & Gabbana，亚历山大麦昆，Gucci

Folklore hybride ou impressions extra larges sur les vestes, l’imprimé fleuri brodé a fait une apparition discrète sur les podiums, avec un seul mot d’ordre : à porter uniquement avec une assurance en béton.

De gauche à droite : Dolce & Gabbana, Alexander McQueen, Gucci

21. 迷你小包（Mini-bags）

不要与卡包混淆了，这种迷你男士包（mini-man-bag）最好还是挂在你的脖子上，感受一下轻松旅行的快乐。

代表设计：芬迪，Prada，路易威登

Not to be confused with a card holder, the mini-man-bag is best worn around the neck. A lesson in traveling light.

Fendi, Prada, Louis Vuitton

22. 太空幻想（Space fantasy）

在这一季中，太空竞赛和包裹人体的保护性纹理的设计统一。在面对一个不确定的世界时，这是一个令人欣慰的想法启发了设计师们。Undercover的设计透露了反乌托邦愿景，以及美国新星Heron Preston的NASA合作项目。

代表设计：Walter Van Beirendonck, Heron Preston, Undercover

A little out of leftfield for the season, the space race and its uniform of protective textures that encapsulate the body a comforting thought in the face of an uncertain world - inspired designers this season. Look to Undercover’s dystopian vision, and US rising star Heron Preston’s NASA collab.

Walter Van Beirendonck, Heron Preston, Undercover